Ifrane and the Middle Atlas by car: cedar forests, snow and winter driving tips

Ifrane sits an hour's drive from Fès, up on the Middle Atlas plateau, with steep roofs and parks that look more like an alpine resort than a Moroccan town. Around it, the cedar forest is home to Barbary macaques and turns white in some winters. A rental car lets you link it all at your own pace, as long as you plan the drive when it's cold.

Photo: Ideophagous — CC BY-SA 4.0 (Wikimedia Commons)

Published on 28 September 2026

How do you get from Fès to Ifrane by car?
The cedar forest and the Barbary macaques
Driving in the Middle Atlas in winter: what changes
Which car and what equipment for winter?
What to do in Ifrane once you arrive?
Ski resorts in Morocco: skiing at Michlifen near Ifrane and Oukaimeden by car
Bin El Ouidane: the Atlas lake to reach from Beni Mellal

How do you get from Fès to Ifrane by car?

Ifrane lies about 65 kilometres south of Fès, roughly an hour's drive. Leave Fès on the Immouzzer road, which climbs in stages to the plateau; the surface is good and the signposting clear.

From Meknès, the drive through Azrou takes a little longer. The two routes make a loop: Fès, Immouzzer, Ifrane, the cedar forest, Azrou, then back through Meknès.

The cedar forest and the Barbary macaques

Between Ifrane and Azrou, the road runs through the cedar forest. Parking areas let you stop and walk under the trees, and the Barbary macaques, a protected species, often come right up to the cars.

Watch them, but don't feed them: human food makes them sick and aggressive. Pull well off onto the verge or into a parking area, never on a bend.

Driving in the Middle Atlas in winter: what changes

From December to February, Ifrane is one of the coldest places in Morocco and snow can fall on the plateau. The main roads are usually cleared, but black ice forms early in the morning and late in the day, especially in the shade of the cedars.

Drive slowly, leave far more room to the car ahead and brake gently. Check the weather the day before; if snow is forecast, ask about road conditions, because some minor passes can close for a while. In bad weather, push the trip back a day.

Which car and what equipment for winter?

For Ifrane and the cedar forest on the main roads, an ordinary car in good condition is usually enough. An SUV gives you more ground clearance, which helps if a thin layer of snow covers the roadside.

Before you book, ask us on WhatsApp: we check with the agency whether suitable tyres or snow chains are available for your dates. Equipment varies between rental companies, so get it confirmed before you leave. Keep a blanket, water and a charged phone in the car, and set off with a full tank.

What to do in Ifrane once you arrive?

You can see the town on foot: the central park, the stone lion and the avenues lined with chalets. In winter, the small Michlifen resort a few kilometres away draws families who come to play in the snow when there's enough of it.

In spring and summer, people come up to Ifrane to escape the heat of Fès. Nearby lakes such as Dayet Aoua are good for a quiet walk and a picnic.

Ski resorts in Morocco: skiing at Michlifen near Ifrane and Oukaimeden by car

Morocco's two best-known ski resorts can both be reached by car. Michlifen, a few kilometres from Ifrane, is the closer one to Fès: an old volcanic crater with gentle slopes, where people play in the snow more than they ski, and it only opens in properly snowy winters.

Oukaimeden, in the High Atlas, is the country's main ski resort, with lifts and high-altitude runs. You drive up from Marrakech along the Ourika road, then a branch road climbs in hairpins to the plateau. Skis and boots can usually be hired on site.

Neither has a guaranteed season: it all depends on the winter's snow. The day before, check the road and whether the runs are open, set off with a full tank, and ask the agency before you book whether it can supply snow chains. After a snowfall, take an SUV for Oukaimeden; for Michlifen, the car that got you to Ifrane is fine as long as the road is clear.

Start from Marrakech for Oukaimeden, and from Fès for Michlifen.

Bin El Ouidane: the Atlas lake to reach from Beni Mellal

Bin El Ouidane lake, held back by a dam on the Oued El Abid in Azilal province, is one of the largest bodies of water in Morocco, with turquoise water, jagged shores and mountains all around. From Ifrane, you reach it by heading south through Azrou and Khenifra to Beni Mellal.

From Beni Mellal, the road climbs via Afourer and then winds up to the dam. It is surfaced and fine in an ordinary car, but the bends come one after another and you often end up behind lorries. Fill up in town before you head up: fuel stations are scarce around the lake.

In summer, people swim in the coves, hire a kayak or a boat and stay in one of the guesthouses above the water. The Ouzoud waterfalls are in the same province, so with a car you can fit both into one trip.

Frequently asked questions

Do you need a 4x4 to reach Ifrane in winter?

Generally not: the main roads from Fès and Meknès are kept clear. An SUV helps in light snow, but careful driving and the time you set off matter more than the type of car.

Do rental agencies provide snow chains?

It depends on the agency. Ask us on WhatsApp before booking and we'll pass the question on; get it confirmed in writing if you plan to drive in the mountains in midwinter.

Can you do Ifrane as a day trip from Fès?

Yes: with an hour's drive each way, you have time for the town, the cedar forest and a nearby lake, and can be back before dark.

When is there snow in Ifrane?

Most often between December and February, but it varies from year to year. Check the forecast a few days before you go.

Is there a ski resort in Morocco?

Yes. Oukaimeden, in the High Atlas above Marrakech, is the main one; Michlifen, near Ifrane, is smaller. Both depend on snowfall: check that they are open and that the road is clear before you set off, and ask the agency for snow chains.

How do you get to Bin El Ouidane lake by car?

Via Beni Mellal, then the Afourer road that climbs up to the dam. It is surfaced and winding; an ordinary car is fine. From Ifrane, you head down through Azrou and Khenifra to Beni Mellal.

Sources

Visit Morocco — visitmorocco.com

Wikipedia — fr.wikipedia.org

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